Tannins in Wine

I often get questions from wine drinkers asking to explain tannins in wine. This is an extremely complex topic, and full exploration into wine tannin is an entire class in enology programs. However, it can be summarized in very broad terms. Tannin is a generic term used to describe a classification of natural phenolic compounds found in nature. In wine, there are two main sources of tannins. There are those that are derived from the grape itself, and those that can be added by the winemaker. Tannins in the grapes are found in the seeds, stems, and skins. The concentration of these can be impacted by the variety of grape, ripeness of the fruit, and wine making protocols on the crush pad and in the cellar.

The other source of tannins in wine is derived by oak. The barrels wines are stored in add tannin, as well as a long list of tannin additions from oak dust, chips, or granulated tannin products that are available for winemakers to use.

There are incredible benefits that tannin adds to wine. They impact the structure and stability of a wine, and are important to wines ability to age. Tannins create mouthfeel and weight on the palate. In addition, tannins act as a natural antioxidant protecting the wine as it ages and add the component to red wine that is heart healthy. Finally, the color of a wine is dictated by specific tannins found in the skins of the grape.

Overall, tannins play a large part in how we enjoy wine. There are hundreds of compounds grouped together under the umbrella term tannin, and each can have a different effect on the finished product. The key to great winemaking is to create a balanced level of tannin in the wine. Inherently, tannin is perceived on the palate as astringent, and in many cases bitter. It is what causes the sharp sensations on the side of the tongue or the feeling that your tongue is Velcro’ed to the roof of your mouth. When the tannin level is too high, or the ratio of types of tannins is out of balance, the wine will be too astringent and bitter.

This is a very basic description of tannin in wine and there are hundreds of topics that can delve deeper into the science of tannin and the wine making protocols that can impact tannin. Like so many parts of wine making, tannin can be an incredible positive to the quality of wine, and it can quickly turn into a wine fault. The key to everything in fine wine is balance.

Decanting Wine

What is decanting? Simply put, it means transferring (decanting) the contents of a wine bottle into another receptacle (the decanter) before serving. It may sound silly (how can pouring wine from one vessel into another make it taste better?), but it works.

Wine geeks love to sit around for hours and debate the pros and cons of this procedure, but I’m confident — based on my experience of opening, decanting and tasting hundreds of thousands of bottles of wine — that careful decanting can improve most any wine.

Why do we decant?
Obviously, it’s not the mere act of shifting liquid from one container to another that accounts for the magic of decanting. Rather, when you decant a bottle of wine, two things happen. First, slow and careful decanting allows wine (particularly older wine) to separate from its sediment, which, if left mixed in with the wine, will impart a very noticeable bitter, astringent flavor. Second, when you pour wine into a decanter, the resulting agitation causes the wine to mix with oxygen, enabling it to develop and come to life at an accelerated pace (this is particularly important for younger wine).

How to decant
Decanting a young wine (one with no sediment) is easy: Just pour it into the decanter. Let it sit for twenty minutes or so before you serve it, and you’ll likely notice a dramatic increase in subtlety and complexity. If you have the luxury of time, continue tasting the wine over a period of hours. It may keep evolving and improving. And don’t let anybody tell you that you should only decant certain types of wine (Bordeaux) and not others (Burgundy). I recommend decanting everything — even white wine, if you feel like it.

Decanting older wine (wine with sediment) requires a bit more finesse. For starters, the wine has had plenty of time to age on its own, so it doesn’t need any artificial boost. You may even ruin it by overexposing it to oxygen before serving. Thus, you should decant older wine immediately before serving, before it begins to change.

In addition, there’s the issue of how best to separate a wine from its sediment. One procedure, which I often see in wine books, is to stand the wine bottle upright for a few days before opening it, so that all the sediment collects at the bottom. I call this the Peking duck approach, and it’s great if you plan your menus several days ahead of time, but how often has that scenario occurred in your home? It never happens in mine, and it surely never happens at my place of business — a restaurant — where people often decide what they’re drinking about thirty seconds before I have to open it.

To decant on the fly, without warning, you’ll need two pieces of equipment: a light source (either a candle or a small flashlight) and a wine cradle. Gently place the wine bottle into the cradle so that it’s just shy of horizontal (about a twenty degree angle). Now open the bottle. Yes, you can do it; you’ll be surprised how far you can rotate a bottle without any wine actually coming out. This is the genius of the long-necked wine bottle: If the bottle’s mouth remains above the level of the liquid, a spill is physically impossible. Practice a little, and you’ll be opening wine on its side like a pro in no time.

Next, after cleaning the bottle’s neck with a cloth, begin rotating the cradle slowly to pour the wine into the decanter. Keep the light shining on the neck, and watch for sediment. When you get toward the end of the bottle, you’ll start to see sediment creep up toward the neck. Stop pouring as soon as that happens. The wine you’ve just decanted will be clean and clear, with a bright and beautiful bouquet, and the sediment will be left behind.

Feel free to take the wine left in the bottle (usually about a glass worth) and strain it into a separate container, using cheesecloth or a coffee filter. It won’t taste the same as the first run pour. However, it is often very palatable once cleaned up and, if nothing else, tasting it is a good exercise for one’s palate.

Occasionally, you’ll come across a young wine with sediment (well-made, unfiltered California Zinfandels often exhibit this trait). If this happens, follow the procedures for decanting older wines, but also allow a little extra time for the wine to breathe and develop.

Choosing a decanter
The principles of choosing stemware also apply to decanters. A clear, crystal decanter allows you to see the wine at its best; overly decorated or colored decanters obscure the wine. Moreover, just as with your stemware, be sure that your decanter is spotless and free from any musty cupboard aromas. Rinse it with mineral water to remove any residual chlorine odor. And never clean your decanter with detergent, because the shape of a decanter makes it very difficult to get the soapy residue out. Instead, use a mixture of crushed ice and coarse salt — they’ll remove any residual wine without leaving behind any aroma of their own.

It Takes a Village

I feel fortunate to live in an area where the primary industries are food and wine.  Those are the glamorous categories most talked about when the Napa Valley gets mentioned, but there is a whole other industry that is the foundation of both fine dining and wine that guides our principals…agriculture.  This is an agricultural community and for far too long this side of the business has not been glorified.

It is a lot like sports.  The fundamentals and hours of practice are not the sexy part of the sport.  Game day is, and that is what people talk about.  There are rarely highlights of the behind the scenes work that athletes and coaches put in on ESPN.  The highlights are reserved for games played in front of large crowds with all the pomp and circumstance.  Rarely do they highlight the athlete that is up at 4 am to get their first of 3 workouts in preparing their mind and body for the grueling season to come.

Similarly, the fine dining and wine businesses do not always showcase the underlying fundamentals of the work it takes to be successful.  Critics are not in the restaurant gardens at the break of dawn critiquing compost, irrigation techniques, soil preparation, etc…  They are in the luxurious dining rooms taking pictures of finished dishes that are expertly prepared and artfully plated.  They do not visit the family farms that produce products that eventually end up on their plates in Michelin starred restaurants.  I wonder if they even consider the early mornings and hard work that go into each and every component on the plate.  Do they understand that while the dish is the creation of a famous chef, there is a whole team of dedicated artisans that took part in creating and executing that dish?

This is also relevant to fine wine.  There are a lot of unsung heroes who play integral roles in bringing that bottle of wine to life.  Does the wine critic or consumer really understand the hours and back breaking work the vineyard laborers put in over the growing season?  Do they understand the long days managing weeds, working the soil and cover crops, hand farming each vine to produce the fruit that is in their glass?  The hours of maintenance and repairs on equipment.  The days sweating under the beating sun in June and July?  The harvest crew that works 18+ hours processing the fruit when it comes to the winery.  The cellar staff that works in cold and dark conditions, caring for and raising the young wine to maturity.  In addition, there are all the ancillary suppliers who depend on the success of wineries to be able to sell glass, corks, capsules, barrels and labels.

The number of people involved in that glass of wine is much larger than most consumers realize.  I know there are large corporate wineries that mechanize, and their products fill an important niche in the marketplace, but what I am talking about here are the family owned and operated wineries.  The wineries where the family touches every aspect of farming and production.  There is a part of their soul that can be felt in every sip of their wine.  You can taste the hours of hard work.  You can feel the pride on your palette.  You might even be able to see a label that is just slightly off centered because it was hand labeled.

These are the wines that tell a story.  Not just a story of the winemaker or the brand.  Not just about the members of the immediately family.  These wines tell the story of a community.  They are a testament to all the people involved, from the dirt to the glass.

As it goes with most agricultural communities, the wineries of the Napa Valley work hard to support each other and our community.  From loaning equipment to neighbors in need, to showing up to lend a hand when things get tough, I could not be prouder to be a part of an industry and community.

The next time you open up that bottle of wine, think about all the people that helped bring that enjoyment to your glass.

Wine Diamonds

Have you ever purchased a white wine and noticed crystals in the bottom of the bottle or a red wine that has crystals on the bottom of the cork?  Many consumers look at this as sediment, but it is not wine sediment.  It is potassium bitartrate.  A natural grape acid found in wines.  These crystals form when wine is chilled, and the acid molecules crystalize and fall out of solution.  If you have ever used cream of tartar in your kitchen, then you are familiar with these crystals.

These crystals are completely harmless and a generally a sign that the wine has not been over manipulated in the winery.  Most wines go through a process called cold stabilization that promotes this bitartrate crystallization in the winery in stainless steel tanks.  In order to do this the wine is chilled to 30 degrees F and left there for several weeks.  Once the crystals have formed, the wine is filtered off the crystals and prepared for bottling.  Another method to prevent crystallization involves using a blend of cellulose polymers added to the wine to prevent the crystallization.  These polymers disrupt the surface of the crystals preventing crystallization.

Many winemakers, including ours, skip this step, feeling that the process takes away from the delicate nuances and flavors.  In addition, there are some concerns on the environmental impact of chilling large tanks and volumes of wine for such a long period of time.  The chillers are energy hogs and pull a lot of power from the grid to keep tanks at 30 degrees.  Many of these wine tanks are outside and the chillers must work hard to combat the elements.

Winemakers are also generally against using too many additives in their wine.  Using the cellulose polymers is an acceptable way to stabilize white wine, but our winemaker just does not like adding outside products to our natural wines.  Our philosophy is to keep our wines as natural as possible.

So, if you get a bottle of wine with crystals in it, consider yourself lucky.  We like to call those wine diamonds.  This is generally a sign of a high-quality, low production wine that is sure to please.  The crystals are totally harmless.

 

Near Perfect Harvest

2018 has been a magical year in the Napa Valley.  The weather has been near perfect, allowing for a substantial fruit set and long hang-time.  After several challenging vintages defined by drought and wildfires, Mother Nature rewarded the perseverance of Napa Valley wineries with a near perfect growing season.

This season started after adequate winter rains filled reservoirs and replenished ground water.  The vines came to life in early spring and the weather was conducive to a large fruit set.  The temperatures were moderate with no rain and minimal wind.  This all resulted in a picture perfect bloom and set.  The summer temperatures remained steady with minimal heat spikes allowing for a slow even fruit development.

This year veraison was extended with moderate temperatures allowing for a slow and steady development of fruit maturity.   As the fruit approached harvest, the mild weather continued and thick skinned red grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, had ample hang-time to allow secondary flavors to develop.

The excitement surrounding the 2018 harvest is evident as I talk to colleagues.  This is a banner year for the Napa Valley and we are all very fortunate for such fantastic weather conditions after several challenging vintages.  Be on the lookout for these wines when they are released in the years to come.  This may very well be one of the greatest vintages in Napa history!

 

Wine Bottling Day

Nothing brings out the OCD in a winemaker quite like bottling.  Think about it; you have spent a tremendous amount of time harvesting, fermenting, and aging your wine.  You were there on the day it was born.  In the vineyard you watched it grow and develop wondering what it would one day become.  On harvest day your pride swells as you finally get to bring your fruit into the winery and begin your hands-on approach to helping guide your fruit to a world class wine.  You have spent countless hours monitoring, analyzing, and tasting your creation.  In the case of red wines, years have passed as you have raised your once young, bold and defiant wine into the elegant and distinguished specimen that it is today.  You have guided it through the “awkward” years and helped it mature.  Bottling is the time where you take all that hard work and long hours and prepare to present it to the world.

Bottling is also the point in which a multitude of things can go wrong.  This is the last time you will have any control over the living, breathing product that will soon go out to represent your craft and your family.

Leading up to bottling day there are a tremendous amount of logistics and operational challenges.  Bottles have to be ordered in the proper quantity and arranged to be delivered on time.  Labels have to be designed, approved, printed and checked for accuracy and quality.  Corks and capsules have to be estimated and ordered.  Case labels, tape, shrink wrap, pallets, all have to be ordered and delivered.  Labor has to be organized and scheduled.  There are a host of winery specific items that all have to be ordered like nitrogen to sparge the empty glass prior to it being filled and filters if you filter your wine.

Your mechanic has to inspect the bottling line to make sure it is in proper working order and with several thousand moving pieces, you can be sure there will be parts to order or simple repairs to be made.  The entire line has to be completely sanitized prior to running any wine through in order to minimize any microbial contamination.

Rarely does everything come together perfectly.  There are almost always curve balls or contingency plans put in place.  After a long day, or several days of bottling you sample the product to determine the effect of bottling on your creation.  Most often there is a time period where the wine is disjointed and “beat up” from the bottling action (bottle shock).  This is another point in the cycle of production where the winemaker can only wait and see how the wine will respond.

The waiting can be cruel and the wines can be stubborn, but once the wine pulls back together, the results are magical.  In this profession there are a lot of circumstances that are out of our control.  However, solid wine-making techniques and experience usually result in a good end product.   The never ending cycle provides constant challenges and stimulation.  That is what keeps us doing what we do.

 

 

 

Wine and Cigars

Two of my favorite vices!   However, often fervent cigar aficionados avoid fine wine with their cigars.  As I travel around the US selling wine, I almost always find a local cigar shop to visit.  I frequently talk to the patrons conducting research on their favorite beverage to pair with their cigar.  The usual response is Scotch Whisky, American Bourbon, Port, or fine French Cognac.   I always try to influence the crowd to try fine wine.

There are many responses as to why some smokers prefer not to pair cigars and wine.  Usually it has to do with what can be dominating flavors in the cigar muting the flavor of the wine or the combination of bitterness that both cigars and red wine possess.   In both cases, I think they just have not had the right wine paired with the right cigar.

Truthfully, the proper pairing can be absolutely amazing.  The earthy tobacco notes of a good smoke can accentuate the same earth tones in a fine wine.  In addition, a properly aged red wine generally shows hints of cedar and spice similar to a great cigar.

The key to enjoying this play on flavors is finding someone knowledgeable enough on both wine and cigars to help put the right cigar in your hand for the wine you are enjoying.  I can tell you on my end that you can always find someone with the proper knowledge of one or the other.  Finding that rare aficionado of both smoke and wine is a bit more of a challenge.

I have had the good fortune of knowing a couple such professionals and always look forward to their recommendations.  Below are some of my favorite cigars to enjoy with our wines.  Yes, the wine selections are biased, but hey this is a winery blog!

Smith Wooton Cabernet Franc paired with My Father “The Judge”

This combination highlights the cedar and leather component to both the wine and the cigar.  The cigar is box pressed so it has a very slow even burn.  The smoke shows an earthiness that is perfect for Cabernet Franc.  This wine is a single vineyard CF that always displays a unique combination of floral perfume on the nose and rich earth on the palate.  The finish is smooth and reminiscent of cedar and tobacco.

Croze Cabernet Sauvignon paired with Olivia Serie ‘V’ Melania

OK, so this is a pairing that could change your life!   Make sure you have a solid 2 hours to enjoy the complexity of the wine and the cigar.  I also recommend a great playlist that will help you relax and take in all the glory.  Croze Cabernet Sauvignon is a deeply complex wine that showcases balance and elegance.  That same elegance is evident in the Melania.  Both showcase earth, espresso, and underlying spice.   The ‘V’ finishes with a touch of sweetness that is perfect with the acidity of the Cabernet Sauvignon.

Smith Wooton Mélange paired with Ashton Sun Grown

This is another interesting combination.  The Ashton Sun Grown cigars have a pronounced Graham Cracker note along with course black pepper spice.  The sheer richness of the Melange can handle the spice and slight sweetness of the cigar.  Melange is a dense wine that is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot.  The Merlot gives the wine an unctuous that highlights the creaminess of the Ashton.

If you are a cigar smoker, I urge you to try a well made fine wine with your next smoke.  The pairing can be ethereal.  For those who need help matching the right wine and cigar, I recommend the following:

The Pipe and Pint – Larry and Pete are the best in the business.  Great selection of cigars and wines, plus decades of knowledge.

Napa Cigars – Eric is fantastic and can offer great recommendations.  Wines served by the glass and a great selection of cigars.

 

Buffalo Hanger Steak

Buffalo was once considered an exotic protein, but has become much more available in the last ten years.  7.5 million pounds of Buffalo meat is consumed annually in the US.   Many local gourmet grocery stores now carry various cuts of buffalo in their inventory.  If you cannot find buffalo at your local purveyor, you can easily order it online. I like to use #D’Artagnan.  The product is shipped frozen or fresh and arrives on ice within a day, depending on order date.

Buffalo has gained in popularity due to fact that it has a rich flavor similar to beef, but has reduced fat and cholesterol.  It has roughly 80% less fat than beef and 22% less cholesterol in the same serving size.  When cooking Buffalo, it is important not to over-cook it.  Without the large amount of intramuscular fat, the meat can dry out fast and goes from beautiful to dull with even slight over-cooking.  So, make sure you keep the meat medium-rare.  I also like to marinate Buffalo steaks, which I normally do not do with Beef.

One of the things I love about Buffalo is that it lends itself to a number of wine pairing possibilities.  While it has the richness to stand up to deep reds, it can also pair beautifully with less tannic red wines.  I love to pair classic varietals, like Merlot and Cabernet Franc with it.

Merlot has a bright fruit character that seems to lift the richness of the Buffalo.  The right Merlot will offer a  balanced acidity that helps cleanse the palate.  This creates a sensation that stimulates the appetite and opens the taste receptors.

A varietal that is even better with Buffalo is a well made Cabernet Franc.  This wine has a beautiful herb perfume with spice and darker red fruit undertones.  With the right aging, this wine is elegant and silky on the finish.  The flavors play perfectly with the finesse of the steak.  I also love our Smith Wooton Mélange with Buffalo.  As a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, it brings the best of both worlds to the party.

We cook and serve Buffalo many different ways here at the CROZE Kitchen.  Hanger steak has become a favorite, but we also braise Buffalo short ribs, and sear Buffalo tenderloin.  I highly recommend you add this flavorful and versatile protein to your arsenal and have a blast researching wines that pair perfectly with your creations!

Cheers

Buffalo Hanger Steak from D’Artagnan

Buffalo from the CROZE Kitchen, with Oyster Mushrooms, Smoked Onion and Asparagus

Smith Wooton Melange

Pesce Spada con Pomodoro

Swordfish in a fresh tomato sauce is a great dish when you can find extremely fresh, high quality swordfish.  The bright acidity of the tomato highlights the rich flavors of the swordfish.  This is a dish that surprises many people as you do not generally think of fish cooked with a “red” sauce.  However the combination is fantastic.

Start by selecting a great piece of swordfish.   The flesh should be firm and the steak should smell like sea water.  I like to get a steak that  is at least 1 inch thick.  Cut the skin away from the flesh and dice the fish into 3/4inch cubes.  Toss the cubes in olive oil and season with salt and pepper.  Saute over medium high heat in a non stick skillet until just barely cooked through.  Remove the fish from the pan and place on a plate to rest.

Add you pasta (use what ever shape of pasta you like) to a large pot of salted water that is boiling and give it a stir.  While your pasta is cooking you can easily prepare the Pomodoro sauce.  In a non-reactive saute pan, add a couple tablespoons of olive oil and add finely diced onion.  Saute the onion over medium high heat for 4-5 minutes.  Once the onion is soft, add fresh chopped garlic, salt pepper and a littler crushed red pepper flakes.  At this point I like to add a ladle full of the starchy pasta water.  Once that reduces, add crushed fresh plum tomatoes (I peel the tomatoes prior to use and crush them by hand.  You can peel the tomatoes by scoring the top and dropping them into boiling water for a few seconds.  Remove them from the boiling water and drop them in an ice water bath)  Of course you can use high quality canned tomatoes if it is not tomato season.

Re-season the sauce and toss in a little fresh basil. Add the cubes of swordfish and bring the sauce up to temperature over medium heat.   Drain your pasta when it is still al dente and add it to the sauce.  Cook the pasta and sauce together for 2-3 minutes to bring the dish together.  Serve in a deep bowl and drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil.  Serve the dish with a white wine that has generous acidity.

I like to pair this with our Croze Viognier, as the bright acidity on the finish really compliments the dish.

Food, Family, & Wine

With the holiday season in full swing, it is time to start thinking about three of my favorite things:  food, family, & wine (not necessarily in the correct priority order).  Over the years I have read so many opinions on serving wine with holiday meals and they generally make me laugh.  Some people think you should serve less valued wines, some recommend top shelf, others swear by specific regions or varietals.  I tend to approach the holidays like any special time and serve wines that, quite frankly, I love to drink.  I do not believe this is a time to go out of your comfort zone.  Choose wines that you love and share them with family and friends.  “Wine people” tend to over-complicate and overthink special occasions.

As a winemaker, I love to showcase our CROZE Viognier and Smith Wooton Cabernet Franc with the traditional holiday meals.  I believe that these wines pair well with the traditional fare, but more importantly, I love to drink and share them with family and friends.  I typically host Thanksgiving and prepare most of the classic dishes associated with the holiday.  However, we do add Oysters and Dungeness Crab to the line-up as every good Californian should.

As a varietal, Viognier is a great holiday wine.  It bridges the gap between high acidity white wines and rich, heavy wines like Chardonnay.  It has a richness in flavor and aroma, yet still finishes with great acidity.

Likewise, Cabernet Franc is a very versatile red wine.  A well made, balanced Cabernet Franc can be a great match to roast poultry as well as rib roast.  It has a beautiful elegance and finesse that compliments a wide range of foods.  There is just enough tannin to take on beef yet enough elegance and acidity to compliment poultry.

The only real rule of the holiday table is that there has to be wine on it and people you love around it!  Cheers and Happy Thanksgiving from all of us at Croze and Smith Wooton Wines.