Tannins in Wine

I often get questions from wine drinkers asking to explain tannins in wine. This is an extremely complex topic, and full exploration into wine tannin is an entire class in enology programs. However, it can be summarized in very broad terms. Tannin is a generic term used to describe a classification of natural phenolic compounds found in nature. In wine, there are two main sources of tannins. There are those that are derived from the grape itself, and those that can be added by the winemaker. Tannins in the grapes are found in the seeds, stems, and skins. The concentration of these can be impacted by the variety of grape, ripeness of the fruit, and wine making protocols on the crush pad and in the cellar.

The other source of tannins in wine is derived by oak. The barrels wines are stored in add tannin, as well as a long list of tannin additions from oak dust, chips, or granulated tannin products that are available for winemakers to use.

There are incredible benefits that tannin adds to wine. They impact the structure and stability of a wine, and are important to wines ability to age. Tannins create mouthfeel and weight on the palate. In addition, tannins act as a natural antioxidant protecting the wine as it ages and add the component to red wine that is heart healthy. Finally, the color of a wine is dictated by specific tannins found in the skins of the grape.

Overall, tannins play a large part in how we enjoy wine. There are hundreds of compounds grouped together under the umbrella term tannin, and each can have a different effect on the finished product. The key to great winemaking is to create a balanced level of tannin in the wine. Inherently, tannin is perceived on the palate as astringent, and in many cases bitter. It is what causes the sharp sensations on the side of the tongue or the feeling that your tongue is Velcro’ed to the roof of your mouth. When the tannin level is too high, or the ratio of types of tannins is out of balance, the wine will be too astringent and bitter.

This is a very basic description of tannin in wine and there are hundreds of topics that can delve deeper into the science of tannin and the wine making protocols that can impact tannin. Like so many parts of wine making, tannin can be an incredible positive to the quality of wine, and it can quickly turn into a wine fault. The key to everything in fine wine is balance.

Decanting Wine

What is decanting? Simply put, it means transferring (decanting) the contents of a wine bottle into another receptacle (the decanter) before serving. It may sound silly (how can pouring wine from one vessel into another make it taste better?), but it works.

Wine geeks love to sit around for hours and debate the pros and cons of this procedure, but I’m confident — based on my experience of opening, decanting and tasting hundreds of thousands of bottles of wine — that careful decanting can improve most any wine.

Why do we decant?
Obviously, it’s not the mere act of shifting liquid from one container to another that accounts for the magic of decanting. Rather, when you decant a bottle of wine, two things happen. First, slow and careful decanting allows wine (particularly older wine) to separate from its sediment, which, if left mixed in with the wine, will impart a very noticeable bitter, astringent flavor. Second, when you pour wine into a decanter, the resulting agitation causes the wine to mix with oxygen, enabling it to develop and come to life at an accelerated pace (this is particularly important for younger wine).

How to decant
Decanting a young wine (one with no sediment) is easy: Just pour it into the decanter. Let it sit for twenty minutes or so before you serve it, and you’ll likely notice a dramatic increase in subtlety and complexity. If you have the luxury of time, continue tasting the wine over a period of hours. It may keep evolving and improving. And don’t let anybody tell you that you should only decant certain types of wine (Bordeaux) and not others (Burgundy). I recommend decanting everything — even white wine, if you feel like it.

Decanting older wine (wine with sediment) requires a bit more finesse. For starters, the wine has had plenty of time to age on its own, so it doesn’t need any artificial boost. You may even ruin it by overexposing it to oxygen before serving. Thus, you should decant older wine immediately before serving, before it begins to change.

In addition, there’s the issue of how best to separate a wine from its sediment. One procedure, which I often see in wine books, is to stand the wine bottle upright for a few days before opening it, so that all the sediment collects at the bottom. I call this the Peking duck approach, and it’s great if you plan your menus several days ahead of time, but how often has that scenario occurred in your home? It never happens in mine, and it surely never happens at my place of business — a restaurant — where people often decide what they’re drinking about thirty seconds before I have to open it.

To decant on the fly, without warning, you’ll need two pieces of equipment: a light source (either a candle or a small flashlight) and a wine cradle. Gently place the wine bottle into the cradle so that it’s just shy of horizontal (about a twenty degree angle). Now open the bottle. Yes, you can do it; you’ll be surprised how far you can rotate a bottle without any wine actually coming out. This is the genius of the long-necked wine bottle: If the bottle’s mouth remains above the level of the liquid, a spill is physically impossible. Practice a little, and you’ll be opening wine on its side like a pro in no time.

Next, after cleaning the bottle’s neck with a cloth, begin rotating the cradle slowly to pour the wine into the decanter. Keep the light shining on the neck, and watch for sediment. When you get toward the end of the bottle, you’ll start to see sediment creep up toward the neck. Stop pouring as soon as that happens. The wine you’ve just decanted will be clean and clear, with a bright and beautiful bouquet, and the sediment will be left behind.

Feel free to take the wine left in the bottle (usually about a glass worth) and strain it into a separate container, using cheesecloth or a coffee filter. It won’t taste the same as the first run pour. However, it is often very palatable once cleaned up and, if nothing else, tasting it is a good exercise for one’s palate.

Occasionally, you’ll come across a young wine with sediment (well-made, unfiltered California Zinfandels often exhibit this trait). If this happens, follow the procedures for decanting older wines, but also allow a little extra time for the wine to breathe and develop.

Choosing a decanter
The principles of choosing stemware also apply to decanters. A clear, crystal decanter allows you to see the wine at its best; overly decorated or colored decanters obscure the wine. Moreover, just as with your stemware, be sure that your decanter is spotless and free from any musty cupboard aromas. Rinse it with mineral water to remove any residual chlorine odor. And never clean your decanter with detergent, because the shape of a decanter makes it very difficult to get the soapy residue out. Instead, use a mixture of crushed ice and coarse salt — they’ll remove any residual wine without leaving behind any aroma of their own.

Meet the Team, Kara Benton

As a small, family-owned and operated winery, we are very hands on with all aspects of our business.  Yet sometimes the day to day operations do not give our customers an inside view to the people behind the products.

Kara Benton is the CFO for all of our companies and is active in just about all aspects of winery life.   She is a mother, wife, and skilled professional who keeps everything running smooth.

Kara has an MBA and spent time studying the European Union abroad.  She also spent a year living in Australia and has traveled through both Europe and Asia.

At Benton Family Wines, Kara is head of all administration including accounting and human resources.  However, it is not uncommon to see her in the tasting room or winery helping out.

Favorite music to listen to at work?

I like to listen to hip-hop and pop.  It is upbeat and helps me work faster.  My co-workers often laugh at me when they walk in and I am busting out an Eminem song with my headphones on.  I like all types of music, but happy, upbeat music is what I prefer most of the time.

What is your favorite wine from our companies?

I like white wine more than red wine, in general.  Our Viognier is my favorite wine that Daniel makes.  One thing that inspired us to dive into the wonderful world of wine was our first wedding anniversary trip to Napa.  We visited Stag’s Leap Winery and this was the first time I had tried a Viognier, I was hooked.  Luckily, I have a husband who is talented enough to make this wine for me now!

What is your favorite wine outside of ours?

I don’t think I have one wine that is a favorite.  I always enjoy trying new things and continuing to learn about different wines.  I like Albinos from Spain, Pinot Noirs from Oregon and there is even a Viognier from my home state of Virginia that I love…but haven’t had in a while.

If you could share a meal with anyone, who would it be?  What would you eat?

My family has been so important in my life.  I would love to share a meal with my grandparents, aunts and uncles who have passed on.  I would not care what we eat, because the food is not what matters.  The company you are with and the time you spend with loved ones is much more important than what is on the plate in front of you.

What is your favorite part of the wine industry?

My favorite part of the wine industry is the sense of community everyone has.  There have been so many times that other vineyard workers, vintners or winery owners have helped us out since we started traveling this road.  We feel fortunate to have met so many great people along the way and we can call many of them our friends.

What is your favorite meal?  What wine would you pair with it?

I love almost all seafood and that generally goes with white wine.  If I had to pick a favorite, it would probably be crab (prepared any way – cold, dip, warm with butter, crab cakes, it doesn’t matter) paired with Viognier.  I do also really enjoy salads and gazpachos with various rosé, but crab usually beats anything.

Who in the wine industry do you admire?

Everyone!  This is a tough business.  When we first began I found it odd that everyone wanted industry specific knowledge (I work in finance).  I thought I could count, add and subtract so what more could there be, but now that we are 10 years in, I understand.  Every aspect of this business is somewhat unique and everyone in the business should be given credit where credit is due.

Do you prefer aged wines or younger wines?  Why?

I definitely prefer younger wines.  I like the fruit forward profile of younger wines.  I am not necessarily looking for sweetness in wine, but I like bright fruit and definitely want the fruit flavors to be more present.  Aged wines seem to typically have less fruit and more earthy, leather, tobacco or smoke flavors.  I certainly appreciate aged wines, but they do not generally have the flavor profile I enjoy the most. 

 

What is your fondest wine memory?

I cannot choose one moment.  I have shared and enjoyed wine with many friends and family over the years.  Wine is part of a life well lived.  Sharing great wine and food with loved ones will always create fond memories and forge new friendships.  We have met so many wonderful people because of wine and we look forward to meeting more people and continuing to share a part of our family with theirs.

 

The Good Life

Our passion is wine!  We are located in the beautiful Napa Valley.  We farm spectacular vineyards and produce amazing wines.  But that is not to say we do not have a passion for other adult beverages.  Anyone who has met our staff knows that our love of the “good life” has no bounds.

I thought today I would introduce you to my favorite cocktail.  As with most things in my life, the history of the drink is as important as the taste.  I was first introduced to the Vieux Carre in it’s birthplace, the Carousel Bar in the French Quarter of New Orleans.  the Carousel Bar is a historic bar located in the Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street.  In my opinion, this is one of the must stay locations in New Orleans.  The hotel has been hosting guests since 1886 and is the epitome of southern luxury.

Even if you do not stay at the hotel, you must visit the bar.  The Carousel Bar is just what the name implies.  It is a carousel that slowly rotates around the bar.  You sit on stools and watch as the bartenders and busy Royal Street slowly roll by.  Don’t worry, it is extremely slow.  I know some of you are worried about drinking on a moving bar!

Now for the drink.  The name Vieux Carre is the original French term for the neighborhood that we now know as the French Quarter.  The cocktail was invented in 1938 by then head bartender, Water Burgeron.  The drink is as complex as the city itself with a combination of spice from Rye Whiskey, smoothness from the Cognac and herbal notes that Benedictine provides.  There is a little investment in the ingredients, but it is well worth your hard earned dollar.

Here is the original:

3/4 oz of rye whiskey

3/4 oz of Cognac

3/4 oz of Sweet Vermouth (please use Carpano Antica, there really is no other sweet vermouth)

1 tsp of Benedictine

2 dashes of Peychauds Bitters

2 dashes of Angostura Bitters

Lemon peel for garnish

Mix all the ingredients in a mixing glass filled with ice.  Stir. Strain into an old fashion glass with a large cube of ice.  Garnish with lemon peel (you can also use an orange peel).

Mix up a Vieux Carre, sit back and listen to some New Orleans jazz and discover a new level of the “good life”  Might I recommend some Louis Armstrong, Etta James, Rebith Brass Band, Preservation Hall Jazz Band or Kermit Ruffins to get you started!

Cheers

 

Meet the Staff, Megan Fifield

Meet Megan Fifield.  Megan was the first teammate on board when we opened the new tasting room in Downtown Napa.  She is a Napa native who grew up in Pope Valley.  Megan is in charge of our tasting room and wine club operations. 

1. Favorite music to listen to at work?

I like to listen to a pretty wide variety of music. Mostly stay between country and rock music while at work, Tom Petty Radio can be pretty hard to beat.

2. What is your favorite wine from our companies?

My favorite from Benton Family Wines, would have to be the Croze brand, Rutherford Reserve. However, I really enjoy the Smith Wooton Cabernet Franc as well.

3. What is your favorite wine outside of ours?

Outside of Benton Family Wines, I really enjoy Italian and some Spanish wines, makes sense though, because I love Italian food! I have 2 favorites, Benessere Aglianico and The Terraces Tempranillo.

4. If you could share a meal with anyone, who would it be? What would you eat?

I’d love to have another meal with my grandmothers. I’d like to have breakfast with one, eggs golden rod, and lunch with another, mac n cheese!!

5. What is your favorite part of the wine industry?

My favorite part of the wine industry quite honestly is the people. I was shy as a younger person. The wine industry has pushed me to open up. I love getting to meet new people, from all over the world. Talk to them, get to know them and their interests and their love for wine. Wine has a way of bringing people together, it’s how I’ve met some of the closest people I now have in my life.

6. What is your favorite meal? What wine would you pair with it?

My favorite meal is spaghetti, red sauce and ground venison (and quite a few other things thrown in) I’d pair it with an almost spicy and not too over powering wine, such as a Sangiovese or a Cabernet Franc. 

7. Who in the wine industry do you admire?

I admire lots of people in the wine industry, but I’d have to take it back to the originals, the ones who saw disease and hard times, pushed through, the farmers, working hard for what they love, and still to this day have a big name and big hand in what the wine industry has become.

8. Do you prefer aged wines or younger wines? Why?

It depends, sometimes I like a big young Cabernet Sauvignon. I also tend to like younger rather than older Pinot Noirs. However, I’ve really started to appreciate a lot of older wines for their softness and maturity.

9. Weirdest/most interesting wine story?

I’ve had a lot of interesting times while in the wine industry. But I think it would be, getting the chance to clean out a tank and be part of harvest!!!

10. What is your fondest wine memory?

My fondest memory. It would have to be with the people I’ve met through hosting in the wine industry. I’ve met some incredible people. I’ve heard lots of stories, good and bad. I’ve been there during great times, and some even unfortunate and very hard times. It’s incredible to me what you’ll find yourself part of, even just meeting someone for about an hour and a half. I’ve made some of my very best friends through the wine industry, even 2 of which that will be standing next to me on my wedding day! All that being said, I guess it’s hard to name just one.

 

It Takes a Village

I feel fortunate to live in an area where the primary industries are food and wine.  Those are the glamorous categories most talked about when the Napa Valley gets mentioned, but there is a whole other industry that is the foundation of both fine dining and wine that guides our principals…agriculture.  This is an agricultural community and for far too long this side of the business has not been glorified.

It is a lot like sports.  The fundamentals and hours of practice are not the sexy part of the sport.  Game day is, and that is what people talk about.  There are rarely highlights of the behind the scenes work that athletes and coaches put in on ESPN.  The highlights are reserved for games played in front of large crowds with all the pomp and circumstance.  Rarely do they highlight the athlete that is up at 4 am to get their first of 3 workouts in preparing their mind and body for the grueling season to come.

Similarly, the fine dining and wine businesses do not always showcase the underlying fundamentals of the work it takes to be successful.  Critics are not in the restaurant gardens at the break of dawn critiquing compost, irrigation techniques, soil preparation, etc…  They are in the luxurious dining rooms taking pictures of finished dishes that are expertly prepared and artfully plated.  They do not visit the family farms that produce products that eventually end up on their plates in Michelin starred restaurants.  I wonder if they even consider the early mornings and hard work that go into each and every component on the plate.  Do they understand that while the dish is the creation of a famous chef, there is a whole team of dedicated artisans that took part in creating and executing that dish?

This is also relevant to fine wine.  There are a lot of unsung heroes who play integral roles in bringing that bottle of wine to life.  Does the wine critic or consumer really understand the hours and back breaking work the vineyard laborers put in over the growing season?  Do they understand the long days managing weeds, working the soil and cover crops, hand farming each vine to produce the fruit that is in their glass?  The hours of maintenance and repairs on equipment.  The days sweating under the beating sun in June and July?  The harvest crew that works 18+ hours processing the fruit when it comes to the winery.  The cellar staff that works in cold and dark conditions, caring for and raising the young wine to maturity.  In addition, there are all the ancillary suppliers who depend on the success of wineries to be able to sell glass, corks, capsules, barrels and labels.

The number of people involved in that glass of wine is much larger than most consumers realize.  I know there are large corporate wineries that mechanize, and their products fill an important niche in the marketplace, but what I am talking about here are the family owned and operated wineries.  The wineries where the family touches every aspect of farming and production.  There is a part of their soul that can be felt in every sip of their wine.  You can taste the hours of hard work.  You can feel the pride on your palette.  You might even be able to see a label that is just slightly off centered because it was hand labeled.

These are the wines that tell a story.  Not just a story of the winemaker or the brand.  Not just about the members of the immediately family.  These wines tell the story of a community.  They are a testament to all the people involved, from the dirt to the glass.

As it goes with most agricultural communities, the wineries of the Napa Valley work hard to support each other and our community.  From loaning equipment to neighbors in need, to showing up to lend a hand when things get tough, I could not be prouder to be a part of an industry and community.

The next time you open up that bottle of wine, think about all the people that helped bring that enjoyment to your glass.

Wine Diamonds

Have you ever purchased a white wine and noticed crystals in the bottom of the bottle or a red wine that has crystals on the bottom of the cork?  Many consumers look at this as sediment, but it is not wine sediment.  It is potassium bitartrate.  A natural grape acid found in wines.  These crystals form when wine is chilled, and the acid molecules crystalize and fall out of solution.  If you have ever used cream of tartar in your kitchen, then you are familiar with these crystals.

These crystals are completely harmless and a generally a sign that the wine has not been over manipulated in the winery.  Most wines go through a process called cold stabilization that promotes this bitartrate crystallization in the winery in stainless steel tanks.  In order to do this the wine is chilled to 30 degrees F and left there for several weeks.  Once the crystals have formed, the wine is filtered off the crystals and prepared for bottling.  Another method to prevent crystallization involves using a blend of cellulose polymers added to the wine to prevent the crystallization.  These polymers disrupt the surface of the crystals preventing crystallization.

Many winemakers, including ours, skip this step, feeling that the process takes away from the delicate nuances and flavors.  In addition, there are some concerns on the environmental impact of chilling large tanks and volumes of wine for such a long period of time.  The chillers are energy hogs and pull a lot of power from the grid to keep tanks at 30 degrees.  Many of these wine tanks are outside and the chillers must work hard to combat the elements.

Winemakers are also generally against using too many additives in their wine.  Using the cellulose polymers is an acceptable way to stabilize white wine, but our winemaker just does not like adding outside products to our natural wines.  Our philosophy is to keep our wines as natural as possible.

So, if you get a bottle of wine with crystals in it, consider yourself lucky.  We like to call those wine diamonds.  This is generally a sign of a high-quality, low production wine that is sure to please.  The crystals are totally harmless.

 

Bud Break In The Vineyards

Budbreak is the magical time of the year that marks the beginning of our growing season and beginning of the new vintage. Typically budbreak happens between mid-March and mid-April depending on how cold our winter has been and how much rain we have received. This year we experienced a cold early winter and then heavy rains from late winter into spring much like 2016. We’ve had warm spells in between the rain storms that have helped wake up the vines in the last weeks of March.

Cabernet Franc Budbreak in Historic Flinn Vineyard

 

 

Although this joyous occasion marks the start of a new season we at Croze like to take a moment to reflect on the past growing seasons. Each growing season is different from the next and each season is a chance to sharpen our tools and take past lessons and apply them to this season. Each bottle of wine has a story to tell and that story always begins in the vineyard with budbreak.

What is budbreak? If you follow any wineries on social media you have no doubt seen pictures of opened buds in the vineyards. Budbreak is the first part of the growth cycle of the vine. As temperatures rise, generally above fifty degrees, and the days grow longer the tiny buds gather energy, swell and literally burst. The buds leaves open and begin to grow into shoots. These shoots can grow as fast as one inch per day.

Now that the first vines have begun to wake from their slumber reach, into your wine racks, grab a bottle and let’s toast to the 2019 vintage!

Meet Our Team – Bill

Bill Thompson is the owner and winemaker for Wandering Cellars and a partner with Croze and Smith Wooton.  After a very successful engineering career, Bill chased his dream and entered the wine industry.

Bill helps with all aspects of our business and splits time between Minnesota and the Napa Valley.

Favorite music to listen to at work?

Styx Radio on Pandora

What is your favorite wine from our companies?

Debut and Melange

What is your favorite wine outside of ours?

Barrel fermented and aged Chenin Blanc’s from South Africa

If you could share a meal with anyone, who would it be? What would you eat?

My mom’s I lost them when I was very young.  My parents told me I loved to hang out at their farm.  So, it would have to be farm fresh grilled vegetables, mashed farm grown potatoes slathered in real butter and garlic with a great steak from their farm raised cattle.

What is your favorite part of the wine industry?

Tasting our wines with new friends and family.

What is your favorite meal? What wine would you pair with it?

Pasta Carbonara with a barrel fermented Chardonnay. The creamy mouthfeel pairs great with the carbonara.

Who in the wine industry do you admire?

Pierre Seillan of Verite Wines. He is my inspiration to produce world-class wines true to the varietal.

Do you prefer aged wines or younger wines? Why?

I prefer an aged wine. I love the old earthy ground floor notes from a red blend or Cabernet Sauvignon.  With an aged white, I love the nutty aromas and flavors.

Weirdest/most interesting wine story?

Meeting Jess Jackson of Kendall Jackson wines at a Verite wine event many years ago. He was a humble man and very easy to talk to.

What is your fondest wine memory?

Chris and I were sitting outside of a restaurant now called PF8 Nitro Ice Cream Lab in Yountville. We were having breakfast, I recall Chris saying she was not ready to fly back that day.  At that moment I said let’s stay another day.  I did not even get the words out and she said yes.  A quick call to Delta and we enjoyed another day in Napa.

Meet the Team pt 2

Daniel Benton is the vintner behind all the brands in our family of wines.  He runs the wine production and vineyard operations for us and is our in-house chef and proud father.

Daniel Benton, Vintner

Favorite music to listen to at work?

It depends on the day and the task. If we are bottling I love to listen to Reggae.  It gets all the staff and the wines in the right mood for a tough day.  When I am blending or analyzing wine, I like Jazz.  It seems to set the mood and keep me focused on the delicate nuances of the wines.  Vineyard work must be Americana or country music.  I definitely tailor the music to the day.

What is your favorite wine from our companies?

That is a hard question. I get asked it all the time.  It really depends on the situation, the company and the meal in front of me.  I usually just answer with the one that is currently in my glass.

What is your favorite wine outside of ours?

I have a lot. I really enjoy supporting our colleagues and friends in the industry.  I lean towards Napa wines, but like a lot of other California wines as well.  I also love great Burgundy.  I don’t think I can choose just one. 

If you could share a meal with anyone, who would it be? What would you eat?

This is a question I have thought about many times. I am lucky that I get have dinner with my favorite people each and every night (Kara and Callan).  But if I had to choose someone from the wine and food industry I would say Thomas Keller.  I have been lucky enough to eat in many of his restaurants and I have a deep appreciation for his philosophy on food and service.   I have walked the French Laundry gardens and watched the dedication his team has to the basic ingredients.

What is your favorite part of the wine industry?

The people. Hands down.  I have met some of the best people through this industry.  Wine has a way of bringing like-minded people together. 

What is your favorite meal? What wine would you pair with it?

I love classic recipes.  I would have to say a beautifully marbled prime ribeye steak with Croze Vintners Reserve is my favorite.  We have a couple great purveyors of beef here and when I want to celebrate I go crazy.  You should see the tomahawk ribeye’s we get from 5-dot. 

Who in the wine industry do you admire?

Well I have to say that we have been luck to call some of the greatest people in this industry our friends. I admire all the small vintners who have taken a chance to chase their passion.  This is a very competitive industry with an infinite number of wines and brands from all over the world.  It is intimidating and having the courage to accept the risk and chase a dream is sign of strong conviction.  I know that is not an actual answer, but I don’t want to name specific mentors and friends.

Do you prefer aged wines or younger wines? Why?

It depends on the wine. A well-made wine is great with a decade of bottle age on it.  However, not all wines age well.  Knowing the difference is key.  I always get asked if our wines can be aged and I usually respond with a question.  Do you like the flavor profile of aged wines?  As a wine ages it shifts from fruit forward to more earthy flavors.  There is less brightness and more complexity.  I love to age our wines.  I would say I am right in the middle.  I love wines with 8-12 years in the cellar. 

Weirdest/most interesting wine story?

Man, there are a lot.  I believe I will pass on this one so I do not incriminate myself or any of my colleagues.

What is your fondest wine memory?

My first trip to Napa. It was my wife and I’s first anniversary.  That is when we fell in love with this place together.  We knew we wanted to be a part of this and worked to find a way to make it happen.  We visited some iconic wineries and came home with a lot of great stories, memories and wine!